Sushi in Japan: Conveyor Belt to Michelin Star
There are pretty much two types of travelers to Japan: People who love sushi, and people who’ve never tried it. (*vegans/vegetarians notwithstanding)
If you’re in the former category, you’re among the millions who (like Jiro with sushi) dream of savoring the perfect nigiri or maki. We’ve got a mouthwatering food guide ahead, so don’t reach for those chopsticks just yet.
For those who are new to sushi but wondering about what it might be like, especially as part of a Japan holiday, this article will help shed some light on that, too.
Sushi Primer: The Basics & History of Japan’s Most Famous Food
First up, let’s lay down the basics about sushi: what it is, where it comes from and how it’s become Japan’s most famous food beyond its borders.
If you’re already familiar with sushi and are tempted to skip ahead to the meaty (er, fishy?) parts, fair enough, but you might miss a morsel of history or fun fact about sushi fundamentals.
Sushi? That’s Just Raw Fish on Rice, Right?
To say that sushi is just raw fish on rice would be like saying that steak is just meat on a plate.
Of course, there’s so much more to it.
The “su” in sushi, in fact, comes from the Japanese word for vinegar. Sushi has its roots in vinegared rice, a simple way of preserving the fish to keep without refrigeration.
The original “narezushi” was typically made of rice and fish pickled together; when consumed, the rice was thrown away and the fish was enjoyed.
Over time, another form of sushi appeared, more akin to what’s still enjoyed in Tokyo and across Japan & the world nowadays: Edomae sushi.
Edomae Sushi: Japan’s Culinary Masterpiece
When we are served cooked rice with vinegar that has a balanced piece of (usually raw) fish placed on top, that’s Edo-mae sushi.
Edo refers to the former name for Tokyo, coinciding with the era in Japan from the 17th century to 1868, known as the “Edo” or “Tokugawa” period.
Sushi in Japan Today: A Full Range of Styles, Tastes & Dining Options
For travelers to Japan, a full range of sushi options awaits you!
From simple (and cheap!) supermarket sushi and “conveyor belt” sushi eateries, to quaint sushi bars and decadent, Michelin-starred sushi restaurants, visitors can enjoy various forms & levels of sushi to the heart’s content.
Your First Sushi in Japan
I love helping folks make the most of their self-guided tours — and specifically food travels — in Japan.
One of the strategies I encourage you to employ is to start basic, at ground level, and work your way up.
For example, when you first land in Japan and are at the airport waiting for your train or bus into the city, why not hit up the convenience store, aka “konbini,” and get some onigiri rice balls and a Strong Zero bottle of water? Then have a proper meal in town, say a soba noodle set or a bowl of ramen? Later you can work your way up the food chain to enjoy omakase or kaiseki meals later in the trip?
With the same strategy in mind, let’s employ the work-your-way-up method with Japan’s sushi scene. Where to start?
On the humble end, you’ve got two options, basically: grocery store or department store sushi (the latter is already an upgrade); and conveyor belt sushi (aka “kaiten sushi”) restaurants.
Shop for Sushi: Grocery & Department Stores, Takeout and More
Most grocery stores and supermarkets in Japan have a sushi section.
It’s prepared fresh daily, often throughout the day. And after 7pm or so, it can go on sale for discounts of 30% or more. But even the regular prices are very reasonable.
If you’ve had supermarket sushi in the US or elsewhere before, this will be a step up. It’s not going to be the quality you’d get in a sushi restaurant, but for price and convenience, it’s hard to beat.
Department stores also have takeout/packaged sushi in their basement food halls. The quality is generally an upgrade from the supermarkets, for a slightly higher price. Again, expect bargains in the evening.
When you get takeout sushi, make note of how far you need to go (how much time, and under what conditions outdoors). Many stores won’t have a place to eat nearby. Most stores should be able to give you some ice packs, though, which will generally last long enough and help you get that sushi back to your hotel room, apartment, etc.
Conveyor Belt Sushi: Entry-Level Restaurant Sushi Goes Round & Round
The original concept of the conveyor belt sushi restaurant in Japan, as you’ve likely seen images, was to have freshly prepared sushi on a rotating belt or tray system. Customers could select what they wanted from the actual sushi that was rolling by.
Known as “kaiten sushi” (pronounced as “kaitenzushi”) in Japanese, the conveyor belt sushi concept is to serve simple sushi in a casual, fast, family-friendly atmosphere.
A global pandemic and some “nuisance” customers caused disruption in the conveyor belt sushi model, though. These days, most kaiten sushi restaurants have deployed a modern, health-&-sanitation conscious system of ordering on tablets and having the sushi whisked to your table (or counter seat) on a special track.
The tablets at many national and regional conveyor belt sushi chains have English and other language options, making your sushi experience smoother.
There is usually a cup in front of you with green tea powder nearby, and a hot water dispenser with which you can make tea. Soy sauce and wasabi are in front of you as well.
Kaiten sushi chains in Japan include Kura Sushi, Sushiro, Genki Sushi / Uobei, and many others. Each region also has its own chains and favorites in kaiten sushi.
Conveyor belt sushi is a fun way to enjoy your first (or second) sushi in Japan!
Sushi Restaurants in Japan: Local, Fresh and Memorable
After you’ve had the basics of sushi in Japan, be it grocery/department store sushi or conveyor belt sushi, it’s time to decide. Are you a sushi fan?
If so, read on to discover what’s next on the sushi experience ladder.
(If not, no worries, sushi isn’t for everyone, but we’re sure you’re going to find plenty of food in Japan that you’ll literally want to write home about)
Beyond conveyor belt style, Japan’s restaurant sushi runs a full range, from simple sushi bars to elaborate omakase meals.
Omakase is where the chef decides what you’ll be eating for dinner — based on the ingredients that are freshest and of the best quality, as well as on any dietary needs or desires you may have. This type of meal is especially ideal for couples on a honeymoon in Japan, as it provides an evening of dining in a refined atmosphere on surprising (but unsurprisingly) delicious cuisine — a uniquely Japanese experience.
Price and quality have a generally high correlation when it comes to sushi in Japan. As each step in quality goes up, you can expect to pay more. You should also expect that the experience deepens the higher up you go, with the top restaurants offering the best quality sushi and sashimi with expert preparation and excellent service.
No matter where you are in Japan, whether you’re on a honeymoon or here for the anime & gaming scene, there’s likely a good spot for sushi near you.
In Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka – aka the Golden Route of Japan travel – a number of popular sushi restaurants dot the map. You’ll likely either need to make reservations for these sushi havens, or plan for a line of an hour or more.
But, like with most other restaurant options in Japan, if you dig a little deeper and go a bit more local, you’re going to find very good sushi in a variety of locations, price levels, quality ranges and more. A local sushi restaurant (away from the tourist zones) with a Google star rating of 3.5+ is a pretty good bet for a sushi meal that will check all the boxes: Local, fresh and memorable.
How to Enjoy Sushi in Japan (+ Bonus Language Basics)
If you go to a conveyor belt (kaiten) sushi restaurant, you’ll likely see English menus.
And some of the sushi restaurants in tourist areas will have English menus as well.
But what to do if you’re somewhere else, like at a local sushi restaurant or grocery store / department store? Well, although the packaging is in Japanese, the lid is see-through, so you’ll see what you’re getting.
As for local sushi restaurants in Japan, we’d suggest a combination of a translation app as well as learning some of the basic Japanese phrases for ordering in restaurants (and also the terms for the various kinds of sushi, if you’re not familiar with those already).
Sushi favorites include:
Maguro = tuna
Ebi = shrimp (Ama Ebi = raw shrimp)
Sake = salmon
Tako = octopus
Hotate = scallop
Saba = mackerel
Ika = squid
Hamachi = yellowtail
Kampachi = amberjack (recommended!)
Ikura = salmon roe
Unagi = eel (freshwater)
Anago = conger eel (saltwater)
Engawa = flounder fin (worth venturing out for!)
Tamago = egg (it’s not fish, just a little omelet, but usually very tasty)
Maki = sushi rolls
There are many other varieties of sushi and permutations of preparation. Ask the sushi chef or check the menu for daily & seasonal specials, as that will be freshest and often unique.
When you enter the shop, if you don’t speak Japanese, you can smile, bow slightly and say “sumimasen, nihongo wakarimasen ga …” (“Sorry, I don’t speak Japanese, but…”). The staff will usually be welcoming and more than willing to help with your authentic Japanese sushi experience. Despite a language barrier, with a few basic phrases and some patience and enthusiasm on both sides, you should be in for a real sushi treat!
Take Home Sushi (Memories) from Japan
While you won’t be able to take home any sushi from your self guided tour in Japan, a little planning and some exploration will help ensure that you have the best memories possible of your sushi experiences in Japan.
From packaged store sushi and conveyor sushi belt eateries to local sushi restaurants and exquisite omakase sushi evenings, there’s nothing quite like eating sushi in Japan.
And while there’s far more to Japanese cuisine than sushi alone, sushi is indeed a culinary highlight for many visitors to Japan.
Have you enjoyed sushi in Japan before? What’s the best sushi you’ve ever eaten? Let us know in the comments below.
Happy food travels!