Kanazawa, Hokuriku & Nagano Regions of Japan
Japan's central regions of Kanazawa, the Hokuriku Arch and Nagano are gaining in popularity among international visitors due to their history, culture and natural beauty.
It really is one of the best places to visit in Japan!
This comprehensive guide will take you through must-see attractions, hidden gems, local cuisine and practical travel tips for travel in these fascinating areas of Japan. From ancient temples and samurai districts to snow-capped mountains and onsen hot springs, these regions showcase a side of Japan that’s well worth exploring.
Kanazawa: The City of Gold Leaf
Nestled on the Japan Sea side (west coast) of Japan's main island of Honshu, Kanazawa is a city that has managed to preserve much of its historical charm
Some even dare call Kanazawa, “Little Kyoto." Um, let’s not go that far. Kyoto is Kyoto. Kanazawa is Kanazawa. They’re both great!
Unlike many Japanese cities that were heavily damaged during World War II, Kanazawa was largely spared from air raids, allowing it to retain much of its original architecture and layout. This preservation of history, combined with its famous gold leaf production, makes Kanazawa a prime destination in Japan nowadays.
As you wander through the city's well-preserved streets, you'll find yourself transported back in time to the Edo period, when samurai ruled and geisha entertained in elegant teahouses. Kanazawa’s city's crown jewel is undoubtedly Kenroku-en Garden, considered one of Japan's three great gardens. Its name, which means "Garden of the Six Sublimities," refers to the six essential attributes of a perfect garden: spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, water courses and panoramas.
In spring, cherry blossoms and azaleas turn Kenroku-en into a sea of pinks and purples. Summer sees the garden bursting with lush greenery and lovely irises. Autumn drapes the canopy in reds, oranges and golds. Even winter has its own charm, with the famous yukitsuri (ropes arranged in conical shapes to protect the trees from heavy snow) creating a nice snowscape.
Adjacent to Kenroku-en lies Kanazawa Castle Park, offering visitors a look at feudal architecture. While the main keep no longer stands, several restored gates, turrets and long storehouse structures provide insight into the castle's former grandeur. The Ishikawa-mon Gate is particularly impressive, showcasing the castle's defensive design.
Looking for an “old town Japan” kind of experience? Kanazawa’s Higashi Chaya District is where you’ll want to go.
This well-preserved district features historic wooden machiya houses lining narrow streets, transporting visitors to a bygone era. The Shima and Kaikaro teahouses, both open to the public, offer an opportunity to step inside these once-exclusive establishments and imagine the sophisticated entertainment that used to take place within their walls.
Sound like the perfect honeymoon spot? We think so too!
In stark contrast to the city's historical sites, the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art shows Kanazawa's modern side. Its circular design and glass façade make it an architectural attraction in itself, while the cutting-edge art from around the world housed within its walls provides a thought-provoking counterpoint to the Kanazawa’s heritage aesthetics. The popular swimming pool installation by Leandro Erlich is a particular favorite, challenging viewers' perceptions of reality.
Omicho Market is a lively market serving Kanazawa since the Edo period; it remains a hub of culinary activity. With over 180 shops and stalls, this market been the place to sample local delicacies such as fresh seafood, seasonal produce and prepared foods that showcase the region's culinary aspects.
Although less touristy than similar “markets” such as Nishiki in Kyoto or Kuromon in Osaka, the unfortunate trend with some of these places is seeing many local business owners retiring and stalls giving way to newcomers who are looking to make a quick buck off the tourist trade, selling inferior quality, non-local product at inflated prices. WIll that be what happens with Omicho in Kanazawa? Time will tell.
While these well-known attractions draw many visitors, Kanazawa also boasts several hidden gems that offer unique experiences for those willing to venture off the beaten path in Japan. The Myoryuji Temple, nicknamed the "Ninja Temple" due to its complex layout of hidden rooms, secret passages and trick doors, provides a fascinating look into the ingenuity of defensive architecture. Despite its nickname, the temple wasn't actually associated with ninjas, but its clever design is no less impressive.
The Nomura Samurai House offers a beautifully preserved residence that once belonged to a high-ranking samurai family. The small but exquisite garden is particularly noteworthy, demonstrating the refined aesthetic sensibilities of the warrior class.
What to Eat in Kanazawa: Best Seafood in Japan?!
Kanazawa's culinary scene is a highlight of any visit, offering a tasty array of local specialties.
Kaga Cuisine, the local style, features fresh seafood from the Sea of Japan and vegetables from the nearby Kaga Plain. Must-try dishes include jibuni, a rich duck stew with vegetables in a thick sauce; gori karaage, crispy deep-fried river fish; and kabura-zushi, a type of sushi made with pickled turnip and yellowtail.
Want to try gold leaf ice cream? It's a delicious dessert and a photo-op that encapsulates Kanazawa's gold-producing heritage.
Kanazawa is a great place for sushi, as you can imagine. Your choices run the range from conveyor belt sushi, such as the local Mori-Mori Sushi chain (damn good stuff!) to Michelin-star-recipient omakase sushi establishments.
To fully appreciate the region's culinary heritage, take part in a tea ceremony at one of Kanazawa’s historic tea houses. This centuries-old ritual sheds insight into Japanese aesthetics, hospitality and mindfulness. For those interested in sake, Kanazawa and the surrounding area are home to numerous breweries. The Fukumitsuya Sake Brewery, founded in 1625, offers tours and tastings that provide a deeper understanding of this quintessential Japanese beverage.
Getting to & around Kanazawa
Getting to and around Kanazawa has become increasingly convenient in recent years. The Hokuriku Shinkansen connects Tokyo to Kanazawa in about 2.5 hours, making it an easy addition to many Japan itineraries. Within the city, buses and the Kanazawa Loop Bus are convenient for sightseeing, with one-day bus passes available for tourists. For those who prefer a more active approach, renting a bicycle is an excellent option, as the city center is relatively flat and compact.
The Hokuriku Arch: Japan’s Natural Masterpiece
Stretching along the Sea of Japan coast, the Hokuriku region encompasses Ishikawa, Toyama and Fukui prefectures. Known for its rugged coastlines, rejuvenating hot springs and traditional crafts, the Hokuriku area offers natural beauty and cultural experiences that complement the heritage of Kanazawa.
In Toyama, the Toyama Glass Art Museum is housed in a building designed by renowned architect Kengo Kuma, and showcases beautiful glass art from around the world. The building itself, with its unique wooden lattice design, is a work of art that harmonizes with the delicate glass pieces within.
For nature enthusiasts, a journey through the Kurobe Gorge is an unforgettable experience. The Kurobe Gorge Railway, often called "Japan's most beautiful railway," offers a scenic ride through a steep canyon, providing beautiful views of emerald green waters and mist-shrouded hot springs. The contrast between the rugged terrain and the carefully engineered railway is a poignant reminder of the delicate balance between human progress and natural beauty.
Venturing into Fukui prefecture, visitors will find the impressive Eiheiji Temple, one of the two head temples of Soto Zen. This vast temple complex, nestled in an idyllic cedar forest, includes over 70 buildings connected by covered walkways. For those seeking a deeper spiritual experience, Eiheiji offers temple stays, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in monastic life and gain insight into Zen practice.
The Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum stands as one of the world's three largest dinosaur museums. Its impressive collection of fossils and life-sized dinosaur models offers a journey through prehistoric times, with the museum's T-Rex skeleton serving as a particularly awe-inspiring centerpiece.
The natural wonders of the Hokuriku region are equally captivating. The Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route, known as the "Roof of Japan," takes visitors on a spectacular journey through the Northern Japan Alps. This unique route utilizes various modes of transportation, including cable cars, trolley buses and a ropeway, to traverse the mountainous terrain. In spring, the famous "Snow Walls" along the route can reach heights of up to 20 meters, creating a corridor of snow that dwarfs passing vehicles and pedestrians alike.
For a unique coastal experience, the Chirihama Nagisa Driveway offers the rare opportunity to drive directly on the beach. This 8-kilometer stretch of sand is the only beach in Japan where this is possible, providing a memorable way to take in the sea views. Further along the coast, the Tojinbo Cliffs in Fukui offer a more dramatic seaside, with spectacular basalt columns rising from the Sea of Japan.
The Hokuriku region is also renowned for its crafts, each with a strong history and unique aesthetic. In Ishikawa, Wajima lacquerware is prized for its durability and beauty, created through a complex process involving multiple layers of lacquer. Toyama's Takaoka copperware, with its 400-year history, showcases the area's metalworking expertise in both items like tea kettles and modern interior goods. In Fukui, the production of Echizen washi paper continues an art and skill that spans over 1,500 years, with the resulting paper known for its strength and distinctive texture.
What to eat here? So many choices! Toyama's white shrimp (shiro-ebi), small and sweet, are often enjoyed raw as sashimi, offering a delicate taste of the Sea of Japan. In winter, Fukui's echizen crab takes center stage, considered one of the best varieties of crab in Japan. Each prefecture in the region also produces its own distinctive sake, often utilizing local rice varieties and pure mountain water to create unique flavor profiles.
Exploring the Hokuriku region has become increasingly convenient with the extension of the Hokuriku Shinkansen line. However, to truly appreciate the area's natural beauty and rural charm, renting a car to explore the coastal roads and mountain passes at your own pace is a nice way to travel.
Note: A large earthquake occurred in January 2024, affecting much of the region and especially the Noto Peninsula in Ishikawa prefecture. As of this article’s publication, restoration efforts were still ongoing – best to check ahead on current status if you are planning to visit Wajima and the Noto Peninsula areas.
Nagano: Mountains & Monasteries
Nagano prefecture, perhaps best known internationally as the host of the 1998 Winter Olympics, offers visitors spiritual depth, historical significance and natural grandeur. Its mountainous topography provides a beautiful setting for historic temples and world-class winter sports resorts, making Nagano a destination that appeals to a wide range of interests.
At the heart of Nagano's spiritual soul stands Zenko-ji Temple, one of Japan's most important Buddhist sites with a history spanning over 1,400 years. The temple is said to house the first Buddhist statue ever brought to Japan, making it a significant pilgrimage site that attracts millions of visitors each year. The atmosphere around Zenko-ji is one of deep reverence, with the air often heavy with incense and the sound of chanting monks.
For a wildly different but equally memorable experience, the Jigokudani Monkey Park offers visitors the unique opportunity to observe Japanese macaques, or snow monkeys, bathing in natural hot springs. This behavior, rarely seen in the wild, is particularly common during the cold winter months, creating a surreal scene of these intelligent primates relaxing in steaming pools surrounded by snowscapes.
History buffs will find much to admire in Matsumoto Castle, one of Japan's premier historic castles. Known as the "Crow Castle" for its striking black exterior, Matsumoto is one of the few original castles remaining in Japan, having survived fires, floods and wars that claimed many of its contemporaries. Matsumoto Castle’s keep offers beautiful views of the surrounding Japanese Alps, creating a juxtaposition of human architecture against natural majesty.
Nature lovers will find paradise in Kamikochi, a beautiful mountain resort in the Japanese Alps. Known for its pristine beauty, Kamikochi features the crystal-clear Azusa River flowing through a valley surrounded by some of Japan's tallest mountains. The area offers hiking opportunities for all levels, from casual walks along the riverbank to challenging climbs up surrounding peaks.
The Togakushi Shrine complex provides both spiritual and natural beauty. Its avenue is lined with towering cedars and its connections to ninja lore. The area is also renowned for its soba noodles, making it a great stop for those looking to combine culinary and cultural experiences.
While these well-known sites draw many visitors, Nagano also boasts several hidden gems that offer unique experiences for those willing to venture off the beaten path. The small town of Obuse, known for its chestnut confectioneries, is also home to the Hokusai Museum, dedicated to the famous ukiyo-e artist who spent his later years in the area. The museum provides insight into the life and work of one of Japan's most celebrated artists, set against the backdrop of a charming rural town.
Suwa Lake, one of the largest lakes in Japan, is surrounded by hot springs and shrines and oozes both natural beauty and spiritual significance. The area is particularly famous for its onsen (hot springs) and the Onbashira Festival, a spectacular event held every six years that involves riding enormous logs down a mountain slope.
For those interested in experiencing a slice of Edo-period Japan, a visit to Narai-juku is a must. This beautifully preserved post town on the ancient Nakasendo highway offers a glimpse into the Japan of centuries past, with its well-maintained historic buildings and atmospheric streets.
Nagano's outdoor activities are a major draw for many visitors. In winter, the prefecture transforms into a playground for skiing and snowboarding enthusiasts. Resorts like Hakuba, which hosted several events during the 1998 Winter Olympics, Shiga Kogen, Japan's largest ski resort, and Nozawa Onsen, a hot spring village with excellent skiing, offer world-class slopes and facilities.
In the warmer months, Nagano's mountains become a hiker's paradise. The Chubu Sangaku National Park offers numerous trails for all levels, from easy nature walks to challenging alpine routes that test even experienced hikers. For those who prefer gentler pursuits, the Shinanomachi region offers beautiful cycling routes around Lake Nojiri and through picturesque rural villages.
Nagano's natural beauty extends to its flora as well. In spring, Takato Castle Ruins Park becomes a sea of pink, with over 1,500 cherry trees in full bloom. Considered one of Japan's top 100 cherry blossom spots, it offers a spectacular display that draws visitors from across the country.
When it comes to food, Nagano prefecture is famous for its soba noodles, particularly those from the Togakushi area, known for their firm texture and nutty flavor. As Japan's largest apple producer, Nagano offers a variety of apple-based treats, from apple pies to apple cider and apple butter.
Local specialties also include oyaki, dumplings filled with various ingredients like vegetables, meat, or sweet bean paste, and nozawana, a leafy green vegetable that's often pickled and served as a side dish or condiment.
Shirakawa-go & Takayama
While technically in Gifu prefecture in a neighboring region, the village of Shirakawa-go and the town of Takayama are making their way onto more and more Japan travel itineraries these days.
We’ll have a separate article on these two, but both make a nice addition if you are visiting the Hokuriku & Nagano regions.
Shirakawa-go is often visited as a day trip between Kanazawa and Takayama. You can take a bus to Shirakawa-go, leave your bags in a coin locker, and continue later the same day to your next destination. Driving a rental car in the area also works well.
Takayama is another town with intact historical buildings in its old town, making it popular for an overnight stay.
Practical Considerations for Your Journey
As you plan your exploration of Kanazawa, the Hokuriku Arch, and Nagano, there are several practical considerations to keep in mind to ensure a smooth and enjoyable trip.
Timing your visit can greatly impact your experience. Spring brings cherry blossoms and comfortable temperatures; summer sees heat & humidity but also festivals and lush greenery; autumn offers spectacular foliage; and winter transforms the land into a snowy wonderland that’s great for winter sports. Think about your preferences and planned activities when choosing when to visit.
In terms of transportation, the Japan Rail Pass might be an economical option if you plan to travel extensively by train; but often times, point-to-point tickets can work out to be the better deal. The Hokuriku Arch Pass, a regional version, can be particularly useful for exploring this area. Within cities, IC cards like Pasmo or Suica can make local transportation more convenient.
Accommodation options range from modern hotels to Japanese ryokan inns. Staying in a ryokan, especially one with its own onsen, can provide a uniquely Japanese experience. However, be sure to book well in advance, especially during peak seasons like cherry blossom time, autumn foliage and New Year.
While English is increasingly common in major tourist areas, it may be less prevalent in rural regions. A translation app or two can be very handy. Familiarizing yourself with basic Japanese phrases can go a long way in facilitating communication and showing respect for local culture.
When visiting onsen, be sure to familiarize yourself with proper etiquette beforehand. Remember that many public baths prohibit individuals with tattoos, although private baths in ryokans are usually more accommodating.
Weather can vary significantly, especially in mountainous areas. Pack layers and appropriate footwear, and don't forget rain gear, particularly during the rainy season (typically June-July). If you're planning winter activities, thermal underwear, a warm coat, gloves, hat and waterproof boots are essential.
While credit cards are increasingly accepted, many places, especially in rural areas, may still prefer cash. It's advisable to carry sufficient yen, particularly when visiting smaller towns or older establishments.
When it comes to food allergies or dietary restrictions, it's helpful to learn how to communicate these in Japanese or carry an allergy translation card. This can help ensure your dining experiences are both safe and enjoyable.
WiFi access has improved significantly in recent years, but coverage can still be spotty in rural areas. Renting a pocket WiFi device or getting a local SIM / eSIM are good options if staying connected is important for your trip.
Lastly, remember to respect local customs and etiquette, especially when visiting temples and shrines. This includes removing shoes when entering temples, older restaurants and ryokans; and observing quiet and respectful behavior in sacred spaces.
Why You Should Visit This Part of Japan
From the gold-leaf adorned streets of Kanazawa to the snow-capped peaks of Nagano, these areas provide something unique for every type of traveler.
By exploring these less-traveled parts of Japan, you have the opportunity to immerse yourself in authentic experiences that go beyond the typical tourist trail. Whether it's soaking in a secluded hot spring, wandering through well-preserved samurai districts or hiking in the Japanese Alps, these regions offer opportunities for both relaxation and adventure.
Frequently Asked Questions - FAQ About This Part of Japan
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While Kanazawa and Nagano can technically be visited as day trips from Tokyo due to the Shinkansen connection, it's not recommended. These regions are rich in culture and nature, and rushing through them in a day would not do them justice. It's better to allocate at least 2-3 days for each area.
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It depends on your itinerary. Major cities and attractions are accessible by public transportation. However, a car can be convenient for exploring rural areas, especially in the Hokuriku region. Keep in mind that driving in winter can be challenging due to snow.
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Major cities and popular tourist sites have made efforts to improve accessibility, but some historical sites and rural areas may pose challenges. Many train stations have elevators, and newer hotels offer accessible rooms. It's best to check specific accessibility information when planning your trip and to inform accommodations and tour operators of your needs in advance.
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