Izakaya: Eating & Drinking in Japan’s Pub Scene
What’s an izakaya? And why should you make sure to visit one while you’re traveling in Japan?
Japan is indeed famous for its cuisine, from conveyor belt sushi eateries & hole-in-the-wall ramen joints to Michelin starred restaurants and lavish kaiseki & omakase food productions. But there’s another side to Japan’s food culture that’s just as important and even more social: the izakaya.
The izakaya is, at its essence, a Japanese pub.
It’s where locals unwind after a long day, where friends gather for casual meals – and where you can experience Japan’s eating and drinking culture overlapping firsthand. From bustling izakaya locations on the well traveled routes of Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto, to little, local, neighborhood izakaya that rarely get an international visitor, you’ll find plenty of options to take in an evening (or two or three) at an izakaya while in Japan.
What is An Izakaya? Why Should You Dine at One (or More) While in Japan?
An izakaya is Japan’s answer to the pub, a place where food and drink come together in a lively, informal setting.
The word “izakaya” comes from “i” (to stay) and “sakaya” (sake shop), hinting at its origins as a place to sit and enjoy a drink. Izakaya are places to eat, drink, relax and connect.
Unlike the focused menus of sushi bars or ramen shops, izakaya offer a broad selection of dishes. Much of the izakaya menu is composed of small plates that are ideal for ordering several and sharing as a group. Izakaya also serve heartier fare that can make a meal.
The izakaya atmosphere is usually laid-back, with a mix of seating options. You’ll see bar stools for those who like to be in the thick of things; low tables on tatami mats for a more traditional experience; as well as standard tables for couples or groups.
The Izakaya Menu: A Journey Across Japanese Cuisine
One of the pleasures of eating at an izakaya is the variety.
The menu at an izakaya is a culinary smorgasbord, with something for everyone. And, the bigger a group with whom you visit the izakaya, the greater the food variety you can experience.
In the mood for yakitori (grilled skewers)? That’s an izakaya staple. Want some fried snacks? Since that’s perfect beer food, you’ll find plenty of those at an izakaya. Fancy some sashimi? Another izakaya standard, and you can count on it being fresh & delicious.
Let’s take a look at some of the many dishes that you’d find on the menu at a typical izakaya in Japan.
Yakitori: Grilled Chicken Skewers, an Izakaya Staple
Yakitori, or grilled chicken skewers, is almost always on fare at izakaya.
Each yakitori skewer is a little bite of smoky, savory goodness, often seasoned with your choice of salt or tare, a sweet soy-based sauce. But yakitori isn’t limited to chicken; you’ll find a variety of meats and vegetables – often cooked over hot coals – each skewer offering a different flavor and texture.
Kushi-Katsu: Deep-Fried Foods on a Stick
While we’re talking about izakaya food on a stick, we’d be remiss if we didn’t cover kushi-katsu.
These differ from yakitori in that the skewered food is all deep-fried. And the items go beyond chicken to include onion rings, quail eggs, pork, lotus root and more.
As you can imagine, kushi-katsu is great beer food – so, in general, great izakaya food. Just remember the one big rule when it comes to kushi-katsu: that communal vat of sauce on the table? No double-dipping! Just take one dip and… enjoy your kushi-katsu.
Karaage: Japanese Fried Chicken
If you’re a fan of fried food, karaage (aka Japanese fried chicken) is a must-try at in izakaya in Japan.
Bite-sized pieces of marinated chicken are deep-fried to perfection; crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside. Served with a wedge of lemon, karaage is a crowd-pleaser, and it pairs perfectly with a cold beer (well, really, what doesn’t?!).
Sashimi: Fresh & Flavorful at Your Izakaya
For something a bit lighter, many izakaya serve sashimi, thinly sliced raw fish that’s as fresh as it gets.
Whether you opt for tuna, salmon or something more adventurous like squid or mackerel, sashimi at an izakaya is a treat. It’s usually served with soy sauce, wasabi, shredded daikon radish and perhaps a bit of grated ginger, letting the quality of the fish shine through.
Grilled Fish: Main Courses of the Izakaya in Japan
While yakitori are smaller portions of grilled chicken, you can also order grilled fish as a sort of main course.
These can be eaten individually or shared (though divvying up the fish can sometimes be a challenge). Popular izakaya grilled fish include mackerel (in various species) and salmon, but can really include whatever’s freshest in season.
Grilled fish in an izakaya will typically be seasoned with salt, or grilled with soy sauce & mirin, soy sauce & wine, etc.
Agedashi Tofu: Crispy & Comforting Izakaya Fare
Agedashi tofu is another izakaya favorite.
This is a simple dish of deep-fried tofu served in a warm dashi broth. The tofu’s crisp exterior contrasts beautifully with its soft interior, while the broth adds a savory depth that’s deeply satisfying.
The warmth of agedashi tofu is comforting as you progress through the evening’s beer, sake, shochu and/or cocktails.
Edamame: Even at the Pub, Eat Your Vegetables!
You might have had edamame before. It’s those cooked beans that you pop open, eat the inside and discard the skin.
Edamame are a popular izakaya snack, and are often ordered with a plate (or two) for the table, among all the other food and drink.
Seasonal Specials: A Taste of Japan’s Four Seasons on an Izakaya Plate
One of the great things about Japanese cuisine – and izakaya are no exception – is its focus on seasonal ingredients.
Depending on when you visit, you might find specials like fresh bamboo shoots in spring, grilled eel in summer or simmered root vegetables in winter. These dishes highlight the best of what’s in season, and give you a deeper appreciation of Japan’s food culture.
Drinks at the Izakaya: Beer & Beyond
While the food is a big draw, the drinks are just as important at an izakaya. And while beer is a popular choice (especially to start the first round), it’s far from the only option.
Sake: Japan’s Famous Rice Wine
When visiting an izakaya in Japan, why not try sake, Japan’s traditional rice wine?
Sake (often called “nihonshu” in Japanese), comes in many varieties, from dry to sweet, and can be served hot or cold depending on the season and the type. An izakaya is a great place to explore different sake flavors and find your favorite.
Shochu: Famed Spirit of Countless Izakaya Evenings
Shochu, a distilled spirit made from ingredients like barley, sweet potatoes or rice, is another popular choice when visiting an izakaya in Japan.
It’s stronger than sake but smoother than whiskey. Shochu is often enjoyed straight, on the rocks or mixed with water. Each type of shochu has its own unique character, making it a fascinating drink to explore.
You can also mix shochu with juice to form the popular “chuhai.” Popular chuhai include lemon, peach, ume (sour plum) and Calpis (much better than it sounds, this is a yogurt-based drink).
Highballs & Sours: Refreshing Izakaya Cocktails
For something lighter, many izakaya offer highballs (whiskey mixed with soda) and sours (a spirit mixed with fruit juice and soda).
These drinks are refreshing and easy to drink, perfect for pairing with a variety of dishes. Flavors can range from classic lemon to more unusual options like ume or yuzu (a type of citrus).
Water: Don’t Hesitate to Ask for Hydration at an Izakaya
If you’re traveling in Japan, you know the value of proper hydration.
While the izakaya staff won’t necessarily come around to fill up your water, it’s best to ask for more water when you need it.
And trust us, if you’re walking several kilometers a day in your Japan travels, especially in the hot, humid months of Japan’s summers, it’s best to keep those fluids pumping through. That goes double when you’re consuming alcohol.
Make sure to drink enough water as well!
The Izakaya Experience: Blend of Food, Drink & Atmosphere
Part of what makes an izakaya special is the atmosphere.
These are places where the noise of conversation fills the air, where the clink of glasses is a constant soundtrack and where the staff greets you with a warm “Irasshaimase!” when you walk in.
The vibe can range from cozy and intimate to lively and bustling, depending on the size of the izakaya and the time of night. Some izakaya are tiny, with just a few seats at the counter, while others are sprawling affairs with multiple rooms and a wide variety of seating options.
Much like pubs and taverns in the UK, US and elsewhere, izakaya come in a variety of options so that there’s one for everyone. Many Japanese people have favorite izakaya that they frequent regularly, the kind of place where “everybody knows your name.”
How to Enjoy an Izakaya in Japan: Tips for First-Timers
If it’s your first time visiting an izakaya, here are a few tips and etiquette pointers to help you make the most of the experience:
Start with a Drink: It’s common to begin with a drink, usually beer, while you browse the menu. In fact, many izakaya will ask for your drink order first, so be ready to choose.
Otoshi Will Be Served: This is a small appetizer or amuse-bouche, and while it may appear to be a “comp,” this is in fact where your service charge is factored in – at around 300-800 yen per person.
Order Food in Rounds: Unlike Western restaurants where you order everything at once, izakaya are more flexible. Order a few dishes to start; then, as you finish, keep the food and drinks coming. This way, you can pace yourself and try a wider variety of items.
Share Everything: Izakaya are all about sharing, so don’t be shy about ordering dishes for the table. It’s a communal experience, and sharing allows you to taste a bit of everything.
Lean into the Din: Izakaya can be noisy, but that’s part of the charm. It’s a sign that people are enjoying themselves, so don’t worry about keeping things too quiet. Join in the fun!
Linger, Don’t Rush to Leave: Izakaya are places to relax and take your time. There’s no need to rush through your meal. Instead, enjoy the food, the drinks and the company.
Try an Izakaya (or 2 or 3!) on a Food Tour in Japan. This is a great way to leverage an insder foodie’s experience and insight as they guide you around a local city’s food scene. Food tours in Tokyo and Osaka are especially great for izakaya, but you can catch a food tour in number of cities in Japan.
In some cases, you’ll want to book online or call ahead to reserve at an izakaya.
Also, if sitting on the floor makes you uncomfortable, ask the izakaya staff ahead of time about the seating arrangements. Sometimes, the floor seating actually has a sunken area for your legs and feet, making it feel more like sitting on a chair. In other instances, they’ll eithe book you a standard table or advise that they can’t accommodate you in anything other than floor seating.
Speaking of unable to accommodate, it’s possible that you could get turned away when trying to eat/drink at an izakaya. In most cases this is because the izakaya is already full; even if there are empty tables, those could be reserved for later. In a few instances, some visitors have reported language difficulties with an izakaya or other kind of restaurant in Japan, and ultimately were turned away – while it’s a shame to see this happen, that’s a reality to be aware of.
Finally, while many izakaya accept credit cards nowadays, not all do. That’s why it’s wise to carry some cash with you, so that you’ll be able to enjoy local experiences such as the izakaya without restriction or worry. And remember, no tipping: service is included (and the aforementioned otoshi is a cover charge you’re paying anyway).
Where’s the Best Izakaya in Tokyo? Or Kyoto / Osaka?
There’s no way to give a definitive answer to the question “where’s the best izakaya in Tokyo?” Or in any other city or region in Japan.
That’s because, as we said earlier, izakaya come in many sizes, varieties, atmospheres and price points. There really is an izakaya for every taste and every budget.
You’ll find traditional izakaya that tatami mat seating; local izakaya specializing in chicken or fish; larger izakaya chains (both national and regional) with broader menus; and high-end places that mix western influences and ingredients (such as French or Italian) to form new versions of an izakaya.
So the best izakaya in Tokyo – or Osaka, Kyoto or anywhere else you happen to be in Japan – is the one that suits what you’re looking for.
Thankfully, these days it’s easy to go onto platforms such as Google Maps or Tabelog, search “izakaya” and the city or neighborhood you’re in, and find a variety of izakaya offerings.
Incorporate an Izakaya into Your Japan Itinerary
Izakaya give you a glimpse into Japan’s social culture, offering a blend of food, drink and atmosphere that you won’t find anywhere else.
Be it a quick bite after work or a long, leisurely meal with friends, an evening at the izakaya is a great way to experience the warmth and hospitality of Japan.
On your trip to Japan amidst the cultural and culinary exploration, be sure to step into an izakaya, grab a seat and let the night unfold.
You’ll be glad you did.