Hakone Onsen: Resort Town in Mt. Fuji’s Shadow
What exactly is Hakone, and why does it seem like everyone from Tokyo goes there?
Located in Kanagawa Prefecture, just 90 minutes from Tokyo, Hakone offers visitors a chance to experience Japan’s onsen hot spring culture in some pretty amazing surroundings.
The Hakone (pronounced “hah-ko-nay”) region has been a popular retreat for centuries, with its mineral-rich waters and spectacular mountain scenery drawing visitors from across Japan and increasingly from around the world.
If you’re visiting Japan (particularly the Tokyo region) and want some relaxation and natural beauty during your Japan journeys, Hakone onsens are calling you. They provide a counterbalance to the urban energy of Tokyo, and a great oasis on an active itinerary (often featured along the way to Kyoto, Osaka and further afield.
What makes Hakone special among Japan's numerous hot spring destinations? In this article you’ll discover why a stay at a Hakone onsen ryokan might be the highlight of your Japan travel adventures.
What Makes Hakone a Premier Onsen Destination?
Hakone's reputation as one of Japan's top hot spring regions isn't by accident.
The area sits within the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, a volcanic zone where geothermal activity creates naturally heated mineral water with various therapeutic properties. The volcanic terrain provides both the hot springs themselves and that picture-postcard scenery that frames your bathing experience.
The best onsen in Hakone offer something truly special: the possibility of soaking while gazing at Mt. Fuji. This iconic view – steaming waters in the foreground with Japan's most famous mountain in the distance – has become an iconic image of traditional Japan. While cloud cover can sometimes obscure the mountain, catching that perfect moment when Fuji appears makes the experience unforgettable.
Unlike some of Japan's more remote onsen villages, Hakone balances accessibility with the real-deal hot spring atmosphere. Its proximity to Tokyo makes it practical for even short itineraries, yet once you arrive, the forested mountains and lake district create a genuine escape from urban life.
Coming to Japan for your honeymoon? Hakone is pretty much a must-stop on your Japan itinerary!
Types of Onsen Experiences in Hakone
Hakone hot springs come in several varieties, each offering a distinct bathing experience:
Ryokan baths - Private and public baths within traditional Japanese inns (private, in-room baths are ideal for guests with tattoos – more on this later)
Day-use facilities - Public bath houses accessible without overnight stays
Outdoor rotenburo - Open-air baths showcasing natural surroundings
Indoor baths - Traditional wooden or modern stone baths protected from elements
Private baths - Reservable baths for those uncomfortable with communal bathing (also tattoo-friendly)
The mineral composition varies throughout the region, with waters containing sulfur, sodium chloride & hydrogen carbonate. Each type purportedly offers different health benefits, from improved circulation to relief from skin conditions.
The temperature typically ranges from 40-44°C (104-111°F), allowing for extended soaking sessions that form the cornerstone of the onsen experience.
Best Onsen in Hakone: Where to Soak in the Famous Hot Springs of Japan
Finding the best onsen in Hakone depends largely on your preferences and priorities. Are you looking for luxury accommodations, authentic traditional architecture, exceptional views or perhaps specific water properties? The region offers options across the spectrum.
Luxury Ryokan Experiences
For those seeking premium experiences, several establishments have earned international recognition:
Gora Kadan: Occupying a former imperial retreat, this ryokan epitomizes Japanese luxury. Its minimalist aesthetic showcases traditional design principles while incorporating modern comforts. The private baths here offer forest views in complete seclusion.
Yamanochaya Hakone: Located in the secluded Tonosawa Valley, Yama no Chaya offers an intimate connection with nature. Their multi-level outdoor baths cascade down the mountainside, creating a series of bathing experiences with varying temperatures and views. The ryokan's architecture blends well with its forested surroundings.
Hakone Ginyu: This contemporary ryokan reinterprets traditional design for modern sensibilities. Their infinity-edge baths create the illusion of soaking directly into the valley below, while floor-to-ceiling windows in some bath areas frame the seasonal landscapes.
Mid-Range Hakone Onsen Options with Character
Excellent experiences await at more moderate price points as well:
Tenzan Tohji-kyo Onsen: This popular day-use facility offers multiple outdoor baths in a natural forest setting. The various pools have different temperatures, allowing visitors to find their ideal soaking conditions. Stone pathways wind between bathing areas, adding to the ambiance.
Hakone Yuryo: Another excellent day-use option, featuring contemporary design with traditional materials. Their cypress baths emit a pleasant aroma while you soak, giving an aromatherapy element to the experience.
Hakone Kowakien Yunessun: For families with children or those looking for something less traditional, this hot spring theme park offers both conventional baths and novelty experiences like wine, coffee & green tea baths. While less authentic, it provides an accessible introduction to hot spring culture.
Hidden Gems of Hakone Onsen
For travelers seeking less-discovered experiences:
Kowakien Yunessun Mori No Yu: The quieter, more traditional section of the Yunessun complex offers beautiful forest-view baths with fewer crowds.
Hakone Kamon: This smaller ryokan provides personalized service and exceptional seasonal kaiseki dining alongside its intimate bathing facilities.
Public Bath Houses: Several small public baths in towns like Miyanoshita and Tonosawa offer authentic local Japanese experiences at minimal cost.
Staying at a Hakone Ryokan: The Quintessential Japanese Getaway
Experiencing a ryokan in Hakone represents Japanese hospitality at its finest.
Unlike conventional hotels, ryokan focus on creating a holistic experience centered around bathing, dining and appreciating natural beauty. Rooms feature tatami mat flooring, sliding paper doors, low furniture and futon bedding that staff lay out each evening.
The ryokan experience typically includes dinner and breakfast served either in your room or in a dedicated dining area. These multi-course kaiseki meals showcase seasonal ingredients prepared with meticulous attention to presentation and flavor balance.
Many Hakone ryokan source local ingredients, including freshwater fish from Lake Ashi, mountain vegetables and regional specialties.
A day at a typical ryokan in Hakone follows a well-tested flow: arrive in the afternoon, enjoy welcome tea, explore the bathing facilities, dress in the provided yukata (casual cotton kimono), dine on an elaborate dinner, perhaps bathe again under the stars, sleep on futon bedding, take a morning bath and conclude with a traditional Japanese breakfast before departing.
Finding the Best Ryokan in Hakone
The quest for the best ryokan in Hakone depends on several factors:
Budget: Prices range quite a bit, from around ¥15,000 per person at modest establishments to over ¥100,000 at ultra-luxury properties.
View: Some ryokan offer Mt Fuji views, while others showcase valleys, forests or seasonal gardens.
Bath types: Consider whether you prefer private in-room baths, semi-private reservable baths or communal bathing areas.
Food preferences: While most serve traditional cuisine, some can accommodate dietary restrictions with advance notice.
Accessibility: Some historic properties have multiple levels without elevators, which might concern travelers with mobility issues.
Location: Staying in central Hakone-Yumoto provides convenient transportation access, while properties in areas like Tonosawa or Miyanoshita offer greater seclusion.
For first-time visitors, a Hakone onsen ryokan in Gora or Hakone-Yumoto provides a good balance of authenticity and convenience. These areas offer excellent transportation connections while still providing genuine onsen experiences.
What to Do in Hakone Beyond the Onsen Hot Springs
While hot springs remain the primary attraction, the question of what to do in Hakone has many answers. The region offers enough activities to fill several days of exploration:
Hakone Open Air Museum: An exceptional outdoor sculpture garden featuring works by internationally renowned artists including Picasso, Henry Moore and Yasuo Mizui. The museum harmoniously places contemporary art against mountain backdrops.
Lake Ashi Cruises: Board a replica pirate ship to cross this scenic volcanic lake, potentially catching views of Mt Fuji on clear days.
Hakone Shrine: With its iconic "torii" gate standing in Lake Ashi's shallows, this vermilion shrine provides classic photo opportunities and cultural significance.
Owakudani Valley: This active volcanic zone produces natural hot springs and famously offers "black eggs" – regular eggs boiled in the sulfurous waters, turning their shells black. Local tradition holds that eating one adds seven years to your life.
Hakone Ropeway: This aerial tramway connects Togendai on Lake Ashi with Owakudani and Sounzan, offering spectacular views throughout the journey.
Hakone Museum of Art: Focusing on Japanese ceramics, this museum includes a beautiful moss garden that's particularly striking during autumn.
Hakone Venetian Glass Museum: An unexpected attraction showcasing Venetian glassworks in a European-style garden setting.
Hakone Checkpoint: A reconstructed Edo-period checkpoint on the old Tokaido Highway between Tokyo and Kyoto, offering historical insights into Japan's feudal travel control systems.
Hiking: Numerous trails crisscross the region, ranging from easy lakeside strolls to more challenging mountain paths.
The diversity of attractions makes Hakone suitable for varying interests and weather conditions. If rain prevents outdoor activities, museums provide excellent alternatives, while clear days make lake cruises and Mt Fuji viewing prime options.
Getting to Hakone: From Tokyo & Elsewhere in Japan
Hakone's accessibility constitutes one of its major advantages as a destination. Multiple transportation options connect it to Japan's major cities:
From Tokyo to Hakone: The most straightforward route involves taking the Odakyu "Romance Car" limited express train from Shinjuku Station directly to Hakone-Yumoto (about 85 minutes). Alternatively, you can take the shinkansen to Odawara, then transfer to the Hakone Tozan Railway.
Kyoto to Hakone: Take the shinkansen to Odawara (about 2 hours), then transfer to the Hakone Tozan Railway for the final leg to Hakone-Yumoto (or take a taxi between ryokan and Odawara station).
Hakone Free Pass: This economical ticket covers round-trip transport from Shinjuku plus unlimited use of most transportation within Hakone, including the scenic Hakone Tozan Railway, cable cars, ropeways, boats & buses. Even if you're not traveling from Tokyo, the local portion provides excellent value for exploring the area.
Once in Hakone, the region's transportation network forms an attraction in itself:
Hakone Tozan Railway: Japan's oldest mountain railway zigzags up steep inclines, particularly beautiful when hydrangeas bloom alongside the tracks in June.
Hakone Tozan Cable Car: Connecting Gora with Sounzan, this funicular railway climbs the steepest portion of the mountain.
Hakone Ropeway: Offering aerial views across the region with potential Mt Fuji vistas.
Hakone Sightseeing Boats: Including the distinctive "pirate ships" that cruise Lake Ashi.
Local Buses: Connecting major attractions and accommodations throughout the region.
This comprehensive transportation network means you can enjoy Hakone without a rental car, though having one does provide additional flexibility for exploring less-accessible areas.
Seasonal Tips for Hakone Onsen & Ryokan Visits
Each season transforms Hakone's landscape, offering distinct experiences:
Spring (March-May): Cherry blossoms typically bloom in early April, creating romantic scenes around Lake Ashi and the Hakone Shrine. Temperature ranges from cool to mild, making outdoor exploration pleasant.
Summer (June-August): Hydrangeas line the Hakone Tozan Railway in June, while August brings a bit of relief from the humidity of Tokyo’s urban heat-effect. Summer months aren’t known for high-percentage Mt Fuji view chances, but the mountain can make an appearance (particularly in the early morning).
Autumn (September-November): Fall foliage typically peaks in mid-late November, transforming mountainsides into an onsen backdrop of red, orange & gold. This season brings comfortable temperatures and clear skies.
Winter (December-February): Snow occasionally dusts the higher elevations, creating postcard scenes at places like Hakone Shrine. Winter also provides excellent Mt Fuji visibility on clear days (which are more plentiful in the winter months), as the mountain's snow-capped peak stands out dramatically.
Hakone experiences higher visitor numbers during Japanese holidays, particularly Golden Week (late April to early May), Obon (mid-August) and the New Year period. Weekends generally draw larger crowds than weekdays throughout the year.
Mt Fuji & Hakone: Viewing Japan's Iconic Mountain
For many visitors, catching a glimpse of Mt Fuji stands high on their Japan bucket list. The Mt Fuji Hakone connection offers some of the most accessible viewing opportunities in the country. Several factors influence your chances of seeing the mountain:
Weather: Clear visibility typically occurs most frequently during winter mornings and after stormy weather has cleared the atmosphere.
Time of day: Early morning generally provides the best viewing conditions before clouds form around the peak.
Location: Several spots in Hakone offer particularly good vantage points:
Lake Ashi's northern shore
The Hakone Ropeway, particularly between Owakudani and Togendai
The Hakone Checkpoint Museum area
Select ryokan with specially positioned "Fuji-view" rooms
Even when Fuji remains shy behind clouds, Hakone's layered mountain scenery provides beautiful alternatives. The region's volcanic topography creates distinctive silhouettes under various lighting conditions throughout the day.
Onsen Etiquette: How to Bathe Like a Local
For international visitors, navigating the cultural protocols of Japanese bathing can seem intimidating. However, understanding a few basic principles helps ensure a comfortable experience:
Shower thoroughly before entering the bath - the bathing facilities provide washing stations for this purpose
Bathing is done naked (though small "modesty towels" can be carried while walking between baths)
Keep your towel out of the bath water
Speak quietly in communal bathing areas
Tattoos may restrict access at many public facilities due to historical associations with organized crime
Smaller tattoos can be covered with a skin-tone patch
Guests with larger tattoos will want to look into private onsen options, such as rental facilities or ryokan with in-room onsen baths (often open-air on balcony or private terrace)
Most ryokan provide detailed instructions for first-time visitors
If communal bathing feels uncomfortable, many accommodations offer private bath options. These "family baths" or "reserved baths" allow you to experience onsen culture without sharing the space with others. Some luxury ryokan even feature private baths within guest rooms.
Culinary Experiences in Hakone
Beyond bathing, Hakone offers noteworthy culinary experiences. The region's mountainous terrain and lake access influence its traditional cuisine:
Kaiseki Ryori: These elaborate multi-course meals form the centerpiece of the ryokan dining experience, featuring artistic presentation of seasonal ingredients.
Yuba (Tofu Skin): A local specialty created by skimming the surface of boiling soy milk, often served in hot pots or with soy sauce.
Lake Ashi Fish: Including various preparations of freshwater fish caught in the volcanic lake.
Hakone Soba: Buckwheat noodles served either hot in broth or cold with dipping sauce, often incorporating mountain vegetables.
Black Eggs: The famous kuro-tamago from Owakudani, regular eggs boiled in sulfurous hot spring water.
Craft Beer: Several small breweries have established themselves in the region, offering distinctive local brews.
Many ryokan in Hakone include breakfast and dinner with accommodations, showcasing these regional specialties alongside broader Japanese cuisine. For lunch, small restaurants cluster around major tourist sites like Hakone-Yumoto Station, Lake Ashi and Gora.
Planning Your Hakone Visit: Practical Tips
To maximize your Hakone experience, consider these practical recommendations:
Stay overnight: While day trips from Tokyo are possible, spending at least one night allows you to enjoy the onsen experience fully after day-trippers depart.
Book well ahead: The best ryokan in Hakone often fill months in advance, particularly for weekends and holiday periods.
Pack strategically: Ryokan provide yukata (casual kimonos), towels & toiletries, so you can pack light.
Factor in Mt Fuji visibility: If viewing Mt Fuji ranks high on your priority list, build flexibility into your Japan travel itinerary or plan a winter visit when clear days occur more frequently.
Use the Hakone Free Pass: This inclusive transportation ticket simplifies exploration while providing good value.
Start early: Popular attractions like Owakudani can become crowded by mid-day, particularly on weekends.
Respect ryokan schedules: These traditional accommodations often have specific check-in windows and meal times.
Bring cash: While major establishments accept credit cards, smaller shops and some traditional ryokan prefer cash payment.
For international visitors, Hakone provides an ideal introduction to Japanese hot spring culture in a setting that balances authenticity with accessibility. English signage and information have improved substantially in recent years, making independent navigation increasingly straightforward.
Beyond Hakone: Extending Your Japanese Hot Spring Journey
While Hakone offers comprehensive onsen experiences, the truly enthusiastic might consider extending their hot spring journey to other notable regions:
Kusatsu: Known for its distinctively acidic waters and the "yumomi" water-cooling performance.
Beppu: Famous for its "hells"—dramatically colored hot springs too hot for bathing but spectacular for viewing.
Kinosaki: A charming town where visitors stroll between seven public baths in traditional yukata.
Noboribetsu: Hokkaido's premier hot spring destination, set in a pretty cool volcanic valley.
Nyuto Onsen: A collection of traditional baths in the mountains of Akita Prefecture, some dating back centuries.
For those continuing their Japan journey, Hakone tokyo connections make for easy transitions back to urban exploration. The Hakone Kyoto route likewise provides straightforward options for continuing to Japan's ancient capital.
Want to get the most out of your Hakone onsen ryokan experience? Schedule a free consultation with Japan Travel Pros, using the calendar tool below.