Trip Report: Unexpected Adventure in Kansai

They say the best-laid plans often go awry.

In the world of travel, that's doubly true. 

We had our sights set on exploring the rugged beauty of Japan’s Tohoku region, but Mother Nature had other ideas. A typhoon swept in, canceling flights & trains, derailing our carefully crafted northern Japan itinerary. 

But as seasoned travelers know, sometimes the most memorable trips are the ones you never planned.

With our Tohoku dreams temporarily shelved, we pivoted. The Kansai region is right outside our front door. It’s full of history, culture culinary delights. In just three days, we'd traverse Nara, Uji, Kyoto, and Osaka. It was ambitious, spur of the moment… but isn't that the essence of adventure?

Day 1: Nara - More Than Just Deer

Our journey began in Nara, Japan's first permanent capital. 

It’s basically part of Japan’s Golden Route of travel (Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka), and thus is on the itineraries for many Japan self-guided tours.

As we stepped off the Kintetsu train, the air hummed with anticipation. 

Nara Park, our first stop, didn't disappoint. We’d been here before, but this was the first visit in nearly two years – and the first in the middle of peak summer heat, with temperatures approaching 38C or 100F.

Yes, the deer were everywhere – bowing politely for crackers, photobombing tourists and generally owning the place. But Nara is so much more than its famous four-legged residents.

Todai-ji Temple loomed large, both literally and figuratively. The massive wooden structure itself is jaw-dropping. Plus, it houses the Great Buddha, a bronze behemoth that has watched over Nara for centuries. 

Our path then led us to Kasuga Taisha, a Shinto shrine famous for its lanterns. The contrast between the vermillion pillars and the lush green forest created a scene straight out of a woodblock print. Nearby, the remnants of Kofuku-ji's five-story pagoda stand as a reminder of Nara's golden age.

As evening approached, we stumbled upon an unexpected delight – the Nara Tokae, a lantern festival held only in mid-August. Thousands of candles illuminated the park, transforming it into a magical scene. It was a stroke of serendipity, the kind that only comes from unplanned adventures.

Day 2: Uji - A Green Tea Paradise

Morning found us in Uji, a town that lives and breathes green tea. 

Our first stop was the iconic Byodo-in Temple. Its Phoenix Hall, which graces the 10 yen coin, was even more impressive in person. The symmetrical architecture reflected perfectly in the mirror-like pond, creating an illusion of a temple suspended between earth and sky.

Byodo-in is situated near the river on a street full of tea shops that are popular with visitors from Japan and abroad. There’s oddly a Starbucks across the street from the temple, right in the midst of this beautiful tea town. We didn’t go to Starbucks, though, not a chance!

A real treat awaited us at Tsuen Tea House. Stepping into the world's oldest tea house felt like traveling back in time. The woody aroma of aged tea leaves filled the air as we sipped brews perfected over generations. Lunch was green tea soba noodles with smoked herring – a must try! And dessert accentuated the green tea, with a shave ice bowl as well as another set of sweets.

We’re both coffee lovers, but tea is the draw in Uji. It’s an easy day trip from Kyoto, for a whole day or combined with Nara for a half day each.

Our tea journey continued at Ocha Kanbayashi, where we tried our hand at grinding matcha. The rhythmic scraping of stone against stone was somehow even meditative. The matcha itself was vibrant, grassy and frothy.

As we strolled along the Uji River, the afternoon sun glinting off the water, we reflected on how this unexpected detour had led us to experiences we might have otherwise missed.

We’d happily recommend a half-day or full-day self-guided tour in Japan’s tea capital, Uji. It’s great for families and couples, and especially for anyone lucky enough to be taking their honeymoon in Japan.

Day 3 Morning: Kyoto Whirlwind

Uji is only a 17-minute ride on the JR Nara Line to Kyoto station, and that was our next stop on the Kansai self-guided tour.

With just half a day in Kyoto, would we visit the famed Fushimi Inari Shrine? Maybe Kiyomizu-dera emple? Or enjoy lunch at a tiny, family-run restaurant?

Nah, not this time. We’re practically locals, living just an hour’s drive away. And we were craving burgers, so we went for an early lunch at Shake Shack. Now, I don’t usually recommend western places for people who are visiting Japan for a short itinerary. But if you’re here long term, sometimes a good burger hits the spot!

Afterwards, we wandered over to Nishiki Market and the adjacent Teramachi shopping arcade. We’re covering Nishiki (and its ilk) in other articles like this one, but suffice it to say that this once-treasured-by-locals “market” is but a shadow of its former self. Nowadays, Nishiki Market is living off its name, having become a tourist trap serving overpriced, subpar food, some of which wasn’t even recognizable as “Japanese” to us. 

Teramachi is looking more like they’re catering to visitors as well, hardly an example of a legit Japaenese “shotengai” shopping street. But there are some gems here if you know where to look. Like Bento&co, which sells cool bento boxes and other Japanese culinary wares. 

The good news is that there’s plenty of Kyoto for everyone to enjoy, and most of it isn’t overtouristed. You just have to know where to look, and how to be strategic about your Kyoto tour itinerary.

Day 3 Afternoon: Osaka

A quick train ride from Kyoto on the Hankyu line brought us to Umeda station in Osaka.

Were we here for the chaos at Dotonbori, the shopping of Midosuji, a view from the Umeda ky Building, or the Osaka favorites like okonomiyaki, takoyaki or other local eats?

Haha, again, no. We had seen an ad for the Snoopy Fesival, so we went to Hankyu department store to check it out. 

Snoopy is immensely popular in Japan; they have several Snoopy stores, and even a Snoopy hotel in Kobe. Seeing as how it’s a country where “kawaii” cuteness rules (the land of Hello Kitty, after all), that makes sense, right? The pop-up festival took up most of the top floor of Hankyu, and they had more merch than Snoopy’s “home” at Knotts Berry Farm in California.

We wandered around the Umeda station complex (aka Osaka Station City) for a while, checking out the new developments on the north side (aka “Ume-kita”) and doing some shopping at Daimaru & Hanshin department stores as well.

Our homemade and very impromptu version of a mini Japan self-guided tour was coming to a close. As we rode home on the Hanshin train line from Osaka to Kobe, we carried with us not just souvenirs, but a renewed appreciation for the joy of spontaneous travel. 

Reflecting on our impromptu Kansai adventure, we realized that sometimes, the universe knows better than our meticulously planned itineraries. While Tohoku still beckons, this unexpected journey through Kansai gave us a tantalizing taste of the region's diverse offerings.

From the cute deer of Nara to the tea fields of Uji, from Kyoto's timeless beauty to Osaka's pulsing energy, each destination offered a unique flavor of Japan. 

For certain types of travel, like on a business trip or honeymoon in Japan, the planning is where it’s all at.

But sometimes, the best adventures are the ones you never saw coming.