Japan’s Coffee Scene, Part 2: The Kissaten

Welcome back, coffee aficionados and travel friends.

And if you’re in the overlapping part of the Venn diagram for those two groups, I’m raising my travel coffee mug to you in salute of mutual admiration!

In Part 1 of our look at Japan’s coffee scene, we talked about the “entry level” of coffee in Japan: vending machines and convenience stores. 

As we continue to look into some of the many options for good coffee in Japan, in Part 2 we’ll cover a mainstay of Japan’s coffee culture (and of modern Japanese culture in general): The Kissaten or coffee shop.

Kissaten: Japan’s Cafes Serving Coffee & Vibes for Over a Century

If you’ve traveled in Japan (or are here right now reading this), you’ve probably noticed that spots to sit, relax and take a break from your active day are hard to come by.

There aren’t a lot of benches in parks and other public spaces, for example. And many restaurants in Japan aren’t geared for the customer to linger, but rather to eat and go.

Enter the kissaten.

Kissaten in Japanese literally means “tea drinking shop.” But in Japan today, the kissten is all about coffee.

Well, not just coffee, but a space to sit, relax, soak in the ambiance, and enjoy coffee along with a pastry or sandwich.

Kissaten are popular with all strata of Japanese society. The shops appear in a variety of locations, styles, designs and target markets.

It’s common for parties of one to frequent kissaten, as single seats and small tables are often available in cafes in Japan.

But kissaten are equally popular with couples, friends, families and small groups. 

In short, Japan’s cafes are a great place to get away from the chaos and noise of daily life, and enjoy however much time you choose to spend relaxing, enjoying coffee and a snack or light meal.

For travelers in Japan, kissaten are also ideal to escape the summer heat, which admittedly can get pretty intense at times, or duck into on a rainy day.

Showing Off Showa: How Japan’s Cafes Are a Slice of Days Gone By

Many of Japan’s cafes are like stepping into a time machine. 

Think dark wood interiors, jazz or classical music playing in the background, and furniture/fixtures that look like they came straight out of a movie set in the 1970s.

That area – notably the 1960s through the 1980s – is looked upon nostalgically in Japan. It’s often called the “Showa” era, a reference to the emperor who reigned over those years. Showa interiors and exteriors are easy to spot across Japan, and they’re literally everywhere.

Showa-themed kissaten – well, “theme” might be pushing it, since many have been around serving coffee and vibes since that era – are common in Tokyo and Osaka especially, along with coffee/kissaten havens such as Nagoya, Kobe, Kyoto and elsewhere.

Morning Set: Enjoy a Comp Sandwich or Thick Slices of Toast with Your Coffee

Pro tip: Order the "morning set" – it's usually a steal and comes with thick slices of toast or a light sandwich, often for the price of a cup of coffee or very little more.

“Nagoya Morning” is a popular morning set in – you guessed it – the city of Nagoya and surrounding areas. If you’re visiting here for Ghibli Park or F1 Japan Grand Prix, just google “morning coffee” or “cafe” and you’re bound to find a good kissaten nearby.

Morning sets are popular in other Japanese cities as well, so again use Google as your handy guide. There’s really no need to go far out of your way for a morning set, since they’re usually served up equally well and available most everywhere.

Kissaten & Cafes in Kyoto, Osaka, Tokyo & Elsewhere in Japan

Whether you’re traveling in Japan’s “Golden Route” of Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka, or you’re in another city or town in Japan, you’re likely quite close to a kissaten.

Not to breed FOMO or place any kind of “best” or “top” moniker, but we’ve put together a list of kissaten in Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka (the “Golden Route” cities of Japan travel) as well as other locations in Japan. If you happen to be in the vicinity of one of these, why not give it a go?

Tokyo Kissaten: Cafes in the Capital

Tokyo seems to have a kissaten on every block.

There are tons of local favorites, many of which effuse that bit of nostalgia or feeling of days gone by. Here are a handful of cafes in Tokyo that are among the many:

Cafe de L’Ambre

If you’re in the famous Ginza shopping district, come here for coffee. No, nothing else, it’s “coffee only” as the sign states, and they mean it. 

Kayaba Coffee

Ideal for travelers strolling around Yanaka Ginza (no relation to the previously mentioned Ginza), Kayaba Coffee has been serving up legit coffee for over 75 years.

Tea Room Ginza Ebisu

Not for tea and not in Ginza, this spot close enough to Shibuya gives off cozy, retro vibes galore. Try an egg sandwich here and you may never go back to konbini egg sando again!

Kyoto Kissaten: Plan an Oasis in Your Itinerary of Sightseeing

The kissaten scene in Kyoto is no less worthy than that of Tokyo. While many of its shrines and temples were once the idea of an oasis, today’s buzzing tourist (overtourist?) activity has inspired many travelers to find a slower moment or two in a Kyoto cafe. 

Gion Ishi

Escape the heat, hordes and geisha paparazzi by stepping back in time at Gion Ishi. This gem near Yasaka shrine, in the heart of Kyoto’s sightseeing district, is modern retro and Showa cafe at its best. 

Inoda Coffee

Inoda has several locations around Kyoto, and their main location is just a few blocks away from Nishiki Market in the downtown Kyoto area. 

Cafe Shizuka

The name literally means “quiet,” so if you’re looking for a little peace you’ve found the right place. Nearing a century of service in Kyoto, this old-school cafe (halfway between Nijo Castle and the Kinkakuji Golden Pavilion) is perhaps best known for its fruit sandwiches – which, if you’ve never tried one, are a must.

Osaka’s Kissaten

In a vibrant urban center like Osaka, you’re going to find great cafes everywhere. Here are a few that are close to many tourist attractions & sights.

King of Kings

Near Umeda Station (aka Osaka Station), this hideaway is well worth an hour or so. Enjoy the egg sandwiches and watch the local characters come and go.

Junkissa American

This retro cafe in Namba looks like a movie set, with its grand staircase, fresh flowers, glas art and Italian marble. Try the omelet rice to go with your coffee of choice.

Sennariya Coffee

Find yourself near Shinsekai and Tsutentaku? Sennariya’s old school vibes won’t disappoint! Popular sandwiches include fruit sando & egg sando; plus their kushi katsu (fried food on a skewer) are a bonus find. 

Kissaten Off the Golden Route in Japan

As mentioned, no matter where you are in Japan, you’re bound to find a good cafe nearby. In no particular order whatsoever, here are some kissaten favorites.

Dorsia Kobe

Staying in the Kansai area (when you’ve visited Kyoto and Osaka already), Dorsia in Kobe’s Sannomiya district looks like something out of The Jetsons. There’s often a queue, but bearable unless it’s a hot, humid summer day.

Ashiya Kohi-Sha

This one’s a little different. It’s got the kissaten old-schoolness and refined classical vibe, but in a slightly more modern setting. Choose your coffee cup – classy – and enjoy a morning set or sandwich here in Ashiya (halfway between Osaka and Kobe).

Nagoya’s Many Kissaten

We mentioned Nagoya earlier in this article. There are many great spots in this coffee loving city (Japan’s fourth largest), and some of our favorites include Kannon Coffee, Cafe Buriko, Matsuya Coffee and Konparu.

Kissaten in Japan: Retro Coffee Vibes Not to be Missed

If you’re a coffee lover doing a self-guided tour in Japan, the kissaten could be your new BFF.

They provide an oasis of calm and quiet on your Japan travel adventures, serving up legit coffee in an old-school atmosphere.

Be sure to include a local kissaten cafe on your Japan itinerary, and let us know which one was your favorite!

Continue here for Part 3 of our Japan Coffee Travel series, where we talk about specialty coffee in Japan.